The twelfth March
Every July 12th Protestants in Northern Ireland celebrate the the deposition of the Catholic King James II by the Protestant King William of Orange in 1688, and the Battle of the Boyne in 1690 which ended in the defeat of the Catholic forces attempting to regain the crown. Historically, and especially during the Troubles, the celebrations were a flashpoint for violence. The Orange Order, which organizes the marches, is a Protestant brotherhood and strongly Unionist. All Orange Order members must commit to upholding their Protestant faith, and are prohibited from partaking in any Catholic ceremonies or marrying outside of the Protestant church. The 12th Marches were, and sometimes still are, viewed as demonstrations of Protestant ruling power and intimidation by some Catholics and Republicans who supported leaving the UK to join the Republic of Ireland, a majority Catholic country.
The signing of the Good Friday Agreement in 1998 brought an end to the Troubles, demilitarizing the border and allowing free movement between Northern Ireland and Ireland. Violence surrounding 12th Marches greatly decreased and currently the celebrations are trying to be rebranded as family friendly fun. The capital city of Belfast is attempting to attract tourists to their march, but in small towns like Ballyclare the majority of spectators are local, with very few, if any, tourists. Violence still occurs even today however, and the event remains steeped in the religious and political divide within the country.
During July 2018 I was in Northern Ireland and couldn’t pass up witnessing a March in Ballyclare, a small town a half hour from Belfast. The march consisted of 70 local Orange Order Lodges, and 40 bands from the surrounding area and other parts of the UK. The March is an interesting window into Northern Irish history, how the country has healed, what tensions remain, and their implications today. The 12th is, after all, a celebration of being Protestant and being British in stark contrast to Irish and Catholic. With the uncertainty of Brexit looming closer and closer, the issue of the border is causing increasing anxiety. There are fears that reintroducing customs along the border and restricting movement could open old wounds, and drudge up conflict once again. After attending a March, I feel those concerns are unfortunately well founded.
The signing of the Good Friday Agreement in 1998 brought an end to the Troubles, demilitarizing the border and allowing free movement between Northern Ireland and Ireland. Violence surrounding 12th Marches greatly decreased and currently the celebrations are trying to be rebranded as family friendly fun. The capital city of Belfast is attempting to attract tourists to their march, but in small towns like Ballyclare the majority of spectators are local, with very few, if any, tourists. Violence still occurs even today however, and the event remains steeped in the religious and political divide within the country.
During July 2018 I was in Northern Ireland and couldn’t pass up witnessing a March in Ballyclare, a small town a half hour from Belfast. The march consisted of 70 local Orange Order Lodges, and 40 bands from the surrounding area and other parts of the UK. The March is an interesting window into Northern Irish history, how the country has healed, what tensions remain, and their implications today. The 12th is, after all, a celebration of being Protestant and being British in stark contrast to Irish and Catholic. With the uncertainty of Brexit looming closer and closer, the issue of the border is causing increasing anxiety. There are fears that reintroducing customs along the border and restricting movement could open old wounds, and drudge up conflict once again. After attending a March, I feel those concerns are unfortunately well founded.
A man from a local Orange Order lodge performs for spectators.
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​Children watch the March from a building overlooking the parade route as a Union Jack flies from one of their windows.
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Men from one of the 70 participating Orange Order lodges march in the parade.
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A young boy plays in a children's band, one of 40 bands to march in Ballyclare.
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A visiting Scottish band from Glasgow performs during the march in Ballyclare. Their drums display the royal cypher of Queen Elizabeth II.
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A boy marches with an Ulster band, the province of Northern Ireland.
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A man marches with a LOL pin, representing Loyal Orange Lodge.
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A senior officer of an Orange Order lodge carries a gavel.
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A member of the Orange Order carries a saber during the march.
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A woman holds a UK Union Jack flag as she watches the March.